How To Install a Bicycle Computer

Have you ever purchased a new piece of bicycle equipment and all excited about getting it back home and putting it on your bike only to find that the frustration of getting it right is the true cost of the new widget? Well the biking computer is probably one of those devices that some of us find hard to work with.

We have found a wonderful video to walk you through the relatively difficult process mounting a bike computer and doing it right will help to ensure success and accuracy of your new bike computer. Give this video a look.

Sidi Road Bike Shoes

Sidi is probably the most recognizable road riding shoe on any of the grand tours. Sidi has taken adjustability to the next level resulting in an extremely comfortable shoe to wear. Performance is in no way sacrificed as the unique sole design maximizes energy output yet remains comfortable. Durability is a factor when spending money on a good road riding shoe and even though Sidi shoes can be a little on the spendy side, they have unparalleled life. Check out this video review for more on Sidi shoes.

Road Bike Tire Pressure

This article is for those of us that simply grab the old tire pump and start cranking away on it until our road bike tires are satisfactorily firm to touch and call it good. This will usually suffice and most of the time the ride will go off without a hitch. However, a little attention to the actual pressure and some small adjustments will make the ride more comfortable and maximize the rolling efficiency of the tires on the asphalt.

First thing is first. You really need a tire pump with a pressure gauge built into it. This will save you the hassle of removing the pump nozzle and applying a separate pressure gauge to check where you are. There are all kinds of different models out there and honestly just about any one will work. Note: A word of caution on buying a cheap plastic pump. They tend to break or leak fairly quickly, so spend the few extra bucks on a decent pump.

 

Road cycling tire pressures generally range between 80-105 psi. This may seem like a narrow range and that the difference is minimal, but remember that these are slender tires and tubes and a little change makes a big difference. The following are some factors that will require consideration when inflating the tires:
1. Air temperature. Cold = more air (100psi). Hot = less air (90-95psi).
2. Riding surface. Rough, cracked roads = more air to avoid pinch flats, but this results in rougher ride too.
3. Flat vs. Hilly ride. On a flat ride you can run lower air pressure and be more comfortable. On a climbing day it is advisable to increase the pressure to decrease rolling resistance and maximize efficiency for those grueling workouts (100-103psi).
4. Tire condition. If your tires are becoming worn, then be very careful not to over inflate or under inflate. This will increase your risk of flats on the ride, and nobody wants that.

Always check the inflation recommendations made by the manufacturer before adding or subtracting air from your bicycle tires.
An interesting thing about bike tires is that they tend to slowly leak when sitting in the garage for a few days and so we recommend that you check your tire pressure before every ride. This just helps to ensure a more enjoyable outing.

Cycling Water Bottles

The importance of hydration when cycling goes without saying. The longer the ride, the more critical this becomes. While water bottles are mostly all the same, there are a few things to consider when picking up a new one.

1. Is the size adequate? Small 12 once bottles might do well for a short 1 hour ride, but will quickly run out beyond that and leave the cyclist without option. The 16-20 once sizes are more practicle and will last longer and you won’t care if you don’t use it all on a shorter ride.

2. One or two bottles on the bike? Again, it is all about distance. If you are usually riding criteriums and not 3-5 hours tours, then one bottle makes sense. The main issue with 2 bottles on the bike is weight and aerodynamics. Most of us have the option of adding a second bottle for longer rides and taking it off for shorter ones.

3. How about a hydration pack? Well, most road cyclists don’t like these. They are bulky, heavy, non-aerodynamic, and trap heat along the back. That said, there is a place for these on long tours or overnight rides (supported or not). For regular training and recreation rides however, we recommend leaving it at home.

4. Is there really a difference in water bottle cages? For most of us the answer is no.   For those serious cyclists that want to shave ounces off of their overall bike weight the answere is yes.  Carbon fiber is lightest, then alluminum, then steel and plastic.  The most important fact really is the ease with which one can remove the bottle and return it during riding.

A note on bacteria: Water bottles are notorious for developing a ‘funky’ odor after 3-6 months of use. This is usually the result of a build up of bacteria and sometimes fungus. Washing the bottle with hot water and soap can help, but ultimately replacment is recommended at regular intervals. Let’s face it, bottles are inexpensive, illness is not. So get some new ones already.

Cycling Shorts & Leggings

Many a road cyclist has been mocked for wearing those “spandex” shorts and looking a little funny. The reality is, however, that bike shorts are not made of spandex like material and in fact are extremely comfortable and functionally specific to the sport of cycling. The cut itself is important in that it they are made to allow for a seated position in the saddle without the bunching and squishing of traditional cut lower body garments. They have a built in pad or chamois (pronounced ‘shammy’). This makes a tremendous difference in comfort on longer rides and helps deter saddle sores. There is usually an elastic band around the leg with a rubberized grip to keep the shorts leg from riding up with each peddle stroke and causing friction irritation. This is also far more aerodynamic. The material (and there is a wide range of types) is moisture wicking and designed to cool the rider.

There are several different lengths of riding pants. There are shorts, 3/4 lengths or calf length and full length designs. Most avid riders have all three so that they can ride most of the year and a wide range of temperatures.

Like Jerseys, cycling shorts tend to be expensive, but last a long time with proper care. We recommend following the washing and drying instructions carefully to prolong the life. We have brought to you the best deals we could find on cycling shorts and pants. Take a look and get stocked up.

Cycling Jerseys

If the surgical mask is the identifying article of clothing for a surgeon, the the cycling jersey is the mark of a rider. Cycling jerseys are not just an ordinary T-shirt however. They are very specialized to fit and perform at a high level along with the cyclist. Many riders worldwide will settle for just any old shirt when they go out for a spin, but a jersey on the other hand offers considerable advantages for the serious cyclist. The very shape of the jersey is designed specifically to meet the needs of the rider when out on the road. It is cut longer in the back than the front to accommodate the bent-over position of the rider and keep the back from riding up above the waist line. It is in this longer back portion that pockets are placed to allow for storage of items such as food, water, and tools. By positioning the pockets in the back these items don’t fall out on the road. The neck is cut low to avoid irritation and constriction around the throat. The front zipper is small and doesn’t rub or pinch. It is also often times a ‘full zip’ style that allows for opening of the front when climbing to reduce trapped body heat. The fit is tight throughout to minimize drag and increase aerodynamics. Highly specialized material is used to increase the wicking effect and improve cooling. Jerseys typically come in both short and long sleeve and some border on lite-weight jackets for cold weather riding.

While all of this is important, perhaps the coolest feature of most jerseys is the “sponsorships” that appear all over them. The professional riders advertise their sponsors when they race for big crowds and television. For the rest of us it is fun to promote the local shop that we frequent or local charity events. Some even represent their local micro-brewery. In this manner the jersey becomes the recognizable portion of a cyclist on the road.

Cycling jerseys aren’t cheap, but usually last a long time. We have brought to you some of the best deals on road cycling jerseys to help keep you stocked.

Road Bike Riding at Night

If you are considering cycling at night or doing some long distance riding, then ilumination will of the road in front of you will be critical. This includes both front and rear lights on you and/or your bicycle.

You’ll need rear flashers to warn motorists and front lighting (headlights) to see the debris, potholes and road hazards ahead of you. Nothing is worse than an unexpected ‘cha-chunk’. Now days LED light are really the best option out there. They have relatively low watt output and therefore have long life without giving up the light intensity. There is a big difference between the functionality of these lights and things you need to consider.

Many of the smaller lights use AA Batteries and they only last 24-48 hours at a time. Some manufacturers advertise more, but generally they base this on a flashing white strobe for the run-time, which you cannot use while riding long distances. This obviously won’t work for night cycling. Furthermore, this is not evironmentally friendly and ultimately this can get costly. Who wants to shop anyway and the little suckers are added weight.

Some riders like the high-tech friction lights that work off the tires, but putting a drag on your tires slows you down. These lights are much more powerful and luminescent, but certainly not my first choice. The AA battery lights are decent and there are several brands, Trek makes one which has five LED lights and has a luminescent rating of 60, most of the 3-LED light units are 40 or less on the luminescent scale, neither of these works at speeds of 20-miles-per-hour or more on a moonless night. Now for riding in central twilight or as the sun is going down, they work wonderful and are legal in states that require bicycles to have lights if they ride at night.

There is another brand called Tri-Newt that has a LED light that scores 480 luminescent on the scale and has an ion-lithium battery, which Velcros to the top bar of the bike frame. The ion-lithium battery is re-chargeable, but this also means you need somewhere to re-charge it and you have to tote around the recharging unit. The cost of this lighting system is steep, $300-400, and the company has another similar unit that scores 200 on the luminescent scale for under $200. One cool option with these lights is that you can mount them on your helmet and run a cable to your water-backpack system where the ion-lithium battery is placed. I wish you well in all your cycling adventures.

Looking for LED lights for your bike?  Try our Bike Store.